Product: Aquarium Munster Aquavital Multitest 6 in 1 (NO2+NO3+Kh+Gh+Ph+CL2) 50 strip
Water quality is one of the most important aspects to consider when caring for the biological balance and health of your ornamental fish. It is therefore essential to control the water quality and if required, to change its condition. The aquavital Multistick provides the possibility to control the 5 most important water values in the easiest way.
Dip one of the aquavital Multisticks for one second in the water that requires testing. Shake of the excess water and wait for about one minute.
Now compare the colours on the aquavital Multistick with the colour scale provided. Unfortunately tapwater is not always suitable for fish and plants, too much nitrate in the water for example is not unusual.
Therefore the tapwater, to be used for replacing the water in your aquarium/pond, needs to be checked regularly.
- Keep the aquavital Multisticks in the container and remove only as many as required (they are very sensitive to humidity). The lid however contains a 'dry cell' which absorbs humidity. Always reseal the container after use.
- The test squares on the aquavital Multistick are "fish-friendly". They can be dipped directly in the aquarium/pond.
- If marine water is tested, inacurrate measuremants will be possible, for reliable measurements please use in fresh water only.
- Do not touch the test squares with fingers.
- Do not test running water.
- To analyse water from an aquarium/pond, use a small clean container free from dirt and chemicals.
- Always fill the container completely, as failure to do so may affect the results. Immerse the container in the water when closing.
- Keep out of reach from children.
The pH indicates the degree of acid in the water. A pH reading of 7 is neutral, under 7 is acidic and if over 7 the water is alkali. As the pH value is to the power of ten (i.e. one unit change means ten and two units mean a hundred) changing the pH must be carried out carefully to avoid any erratic changes.
There is no general advice for an optimum pH. Depending on their origin,ornamental fish have very different needs. For example fish from South America live in a very acidic environment (pH less than 7), however cichlids from East African inland waters survive in alkaline water (pH more than 7).
Comparing the ph-square on the aquavital Multistick using the scale provided shows the pH of the analysed water.
A transition in the colour shows an intermediate value. If the carbonate hardness is lower than 3Â° dKH the determined pH-value may be inaccurate. Is a normal aquarium this situation will be rarely. In this case you have to adjust the carbonate hardness to a value of more than 3Â° dKH, to be able to determine a reliable pH-value.
If the pH is too high, we recommend the carefull acidification of the water by using aquavital black peat or aquavital granules. To increase the pH place chalky stone or gravel in the water.
Total hardness (GH):
The total hardness shows the calcium and magnesium salts dissolved in the water. There is also no general advice for an optimum value. Most species like medium hard water (8 - 12° dGH). East African omamental fish however, live in 'hard' water with about 15 - 30° dGH.
Compare the 3 GH squares on the aquavital Multistick with the scale provided. The numbers of the violet coloured squares show the total hardness. Partly coloured squares show an intermediate value. To reduce the hardness, we recommend aquavital black peat or aquavital peat granules. To increase the hardness use calcium contained in stone or gravel (e.g. coral sand or marble stone).
Carbonate Hardness (KH):
The carbonate hardness is the stabilizer for the pH.
With low carbonate hardness the pH is unstable and can change rapidly again and again. The optimum for the most aquariums and ponds is 4 - 8° dKH.
Compare the KH squares on the aquavital Multistick with the scale provided. A transition in the colour shows an inserted value. To lower the hardness use aquavital black peat or black peat granules, to increase it use calcium contained in stone or gravel (e.g. coral sand or marble stone).
The nitrogen compounds nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO3)
The decomposition of organic nitrogen compounds consisting of excrement, dead parts of plants, foodrests etc. is divided in several stages.
1. Ammonia and ammonium develop from organic waste. The water plants absorb ammonium as a nitrogen fertilizer.
Ammonia is highly toxic. The transformation of ammonia and ammonium is dependent on the pH. Ammonium develops with low pH, ammonia with high pH. In view of this, there is no possibility of 'ammonia poisoning' in aquariums with a low pH.
2. Nitrite, which is toxic for fish, develops from ammonium/ammonia.
3. Nitrite is converted into nitrate, which is only toxic in high concenterations. The water plants absorb the nitrate as a nutrient.
These decomposition stages are carried out by micro-organisms, which form a complex unity of life with other micro-organisms in the filter and base of the aquarium. Increased nitrite or nitrate indicate that the biological balance in the aquarium or pond has been disturbed. In this case part of the water should be replaced and the reason for the disturbance identified.
To create and keep an effective culture of micro-organisms we recommend using aquavital Filter-starter and aquavital Bio-nutrient Complex for the filter bacteria.
Nitrite, even in low concentrations, is toxic for ornamental fish. If the nitrite-square on the Multistick changes colour, adjustments need to be carried out immediately. Part of the water must be changed and aquavital Filter-Starter and aquavital Bio-nutrien-Complex for filter bacteria should be added to the water.
Compare the nitrate-square on the aquavital Multistick with the scale provided. A transition in the colour shows an inserted value.